Rossendale Ramblers - Past Walking Holidays

Slovakia
Sat, Nov 1st, 2008

Text contributions from Elaine, Peter, Tom, Rosemary and Ian.

Jack ponders his position on the railway

The start of our holiday by Ian.

The long awaited holiday date finally arrived and we landed in Bratislava on time with everything having gone to plan. It was going dark as we boarded the bus for the long five-hour drive clear across the country to our base in Smokovec. Some bore the journey better than others, there was nothing to see in the darkness and any lights in the bus would have been detrimental to the drivers' vision so no reading was possible to alleviate the monotony. A picnic was provided and a 30-minute stop half way for a brew and nose powdering took care of basic needs. We must be getting soft. It was cold when we reached the hotel at 3000feet but nice and warm inside, and, after the usual chaos of a mass check-in, we turned in. Personally I slept the sleep of the innocent and awoke refreshed and ready to take on breakfast. Opening the curtains revealed a glorious morning with sunshine, blue skies and a view of the snow capped mountains right off a chocolate box. One of the major differences in cultures around the world is breakfast. We are more likely to vary lunch or dinner than breakfast, so it is an adventure sitting down to the first breakfast of a holiday. Three sorts of muesli type cereal and orange juice, not much of a change there, egg, sausage, toast and jam, still familiar. Sliced cheeses, cold ham, spicy sausage that was strong enough to take you off at the knees, lots of bread rolls, sweet pastries and fruit. Impossible to starve! Fruit teas are popular but tea tea hasn't caught on big time yet. Joan B raided the supermarket and handed out tea bags liberally all week, bless her. Martin was to be our guide for the week with Marco helping today because of the numbers and also to be able to have A and B walks going different ways. He had arranged to collect us at 11am to give us time to settle in and get our bearings. We scattered to investigate the picturesque town of Stary Smokovec and some of us ended up in the internet cafe for a coffee whilst Gretchen tackled the unfamiliar keyboard on a computer. A third language was heard at times. With so much forest it wasn't surprising to find many of the buildings constructed of timber reminiscent of Switzerland. Everywhere was clean and tidy with public gardens well kept and very quiet. It must have been between the summer walking season and winter sports. We had been told that we might see a young bear wandering around town doing some scavenging after being displaced by the adults to go find its own territory. Martin arrived carrying a box containing our packed lunches, bread rolls with ham, cheese and tomato, fruit, chocolate bar and a bottle of water. A short introduction to Slovakia in general and Smokovec in particular and away we went to see the spa spring where we had a taste (like soda water, see Peter's picture of Tom).

Where there is food there are ramblers

As we started to climb through the trees we came to a patch of bare ground with just the odd pine still standing and this was due to a high wind, 200 kilometres per hour, four years previously that flattened an area one kilometre by forty five kilometres. Looking back we could see Poprad and its attendant airport that is only served from the UK though Luton. Our objective on this short introductory walk was a hut halfway up the mountain where we were able to purchase delicious warming soups of garlic, lentils or goulash and mountain tea that consisted of green tea with a whopping dollop of honey. Just what you need to go uphill. Two young (As yet) chaps were setting off back down the mountain to collect provisions with a beer keg in a frame and huge packs to fill. It is the only way to restock the huts along the rocky trails.

The return to base followed the same trails as a circular would have been much too far for the remaining daylight. Dinner in our hotel was adequate and we went across to the Grand Hotel opposite for a social evening with whatever took our fancy. There wasn't any competition so we didn't have to drive anyone out. The waiter was agreeably tolerant.

Snow, shorts and knees

Monday morning opened with clear blue sky again and rather nippy but we had a warm bus-ride fifteen minutes down the road to the east and parked up at the entrance to a national park track leading up into the mountains. The second ‘shepherd' today was Patrick and he was to remain with us for the rest of the week.

We set off up the logging track with the full party until the division of the way when twelve of us went straight on and the others veered left. The idea was to meet up at the hut later on and come down together after breaking bread. We started at around 3000feet so the climb up the rocky track wasn't going to be so strenuous although we must have been at around 6000ft. by the time we reached the White Tarn. The snow covered mountains around us sparkled in the sunshine and the clouds feathering off the summits showed that it was a bit windy up there as we were to find out later in the week. A lone walker sat by the lake until, as is so often the case, we shifted him. Photographs were taken from all angles some good, some not so good and some even better. What a beautiful place to be on such a day, it was a shame to leave but we had a rendezvous to keep.

The path was a contouring one to begin with and then a gradual descent set in until we reached the hut where the others waited for us. The goulash was good and wholesome and the mountain tea blended nicely. Green Tarn outside the window was partly frozen where the sun didn't fall upon the water and the path right the way round it was being used by quite a few people including some of ours. The ancient ex military supply vehicle was being fettled and finally parked up in a cloud of smoke. The road it has to use needs a foot of snow to be anything like smooth. We departed en masse the way that the other party came up and were back at base in time for coffees before showering and presenting ourselves in the dining room to be fed.

The temperature outside dropped to about 5C each night and discouraged idling about on the street corners so we had a drink of whatever we fancied in the tavern where it was warm. Some even had confectionary but you do need lots of calories when walking every day. Another reason is greedy-guts!

MOUNTAIN PARADISE

ROSSENDALE RAMBLERS- September 27 to October 4, 2008

HOTEL SMOKOVEC- STARY SMOKOVEC

From Peter.

WALK DAY No.3 Tuesday September 30. Leaders Martin and Patrick

Another bright blue-skied day as we met our leaders at the hotel in readiness for the walk to the railway station to catch the narrow gauge TATRA ELECTRIC RAILWAY. (Originally built in 1908, current rolling stock new in 2000). Our administrator Gretchen advised that our evening meals were now to be paid for and she would not be walking with us today as she sprained her ankle the day before- a double pity!

But some excitement as we crossed the tracks and boarded the train. Destination not known, but eventually reached STRBSKE PLESO at 10.20, the end of the western line, being the highest settlement at 1370 m. in the Eastern Carpathian Mountain Range!

Arrived on what appeared to be a large construction site, new buildings going up, old buildings being renovated, but a short walk took us to the PLESO (= mountain lake, tarn or moraine). Beautiful views of the lake, mountains, hotels (one of which will be the Kempinski Grand Hotel, opening march 2009, on the shore of the lake), and two ski jumps.

The group split into two, (and as Ann Barnes pointed out into Hard and Soft). Martin's contingent off to the left of the lake, and Patrick's to the right.

Martin's instructions to keep to the Yellow path. Followed a wide forestry road signposted yellow and red. At the Yellow turn-off, a short break was taken which gave Jeannette enough time to describe finger length research and Gary was delighted that his fingers were A OK! Then onwards and upwards towards the Furkotska Dolina. A long climb and three of the group got so carried away in the lead that the Blue signpost to Pod Soliscom was missed. Oh dear- only by whistling, shouting and a twenty-minute delay were the three reprobates brought to heel. Ostracised and castigated, but it did allow Ian T to eat his picnic! All present and correct Sir Martin with apologies.

The Blue path would take us to the Chata pod Solicom at 1830 m. Up over a very rocky terrain but fantastic views to the plains below, and hills in the far distant. Could we see Ukraine or maybe Hungary? On reaching the Chata (mountain café hut) the weather was distinctly cooler, a cold wind. The other group had already arrived and tucking into garlic or cabbage soup. Surprise, surprise Gretchen T was there too, having come up on the ski lift! For some the goal was to climb up to Predne Solisko at 2117 m. before taking lunch with a few ‘shots' to keep out the cold. But it was cold- the brave ones made it, scrambling to the peak with high winds and even low cloud.

Lunch over, walking down the ski-slope towards the ski jumps, one 90 m the other 120 m. Both built, along with the complex and hotel below, for the 1970 FSI Nordic Ski Championships. Surprised to see though what appeared to be beach volleyball courts.

Getting closer to our starting point passed the four stars Patria Hotel where our leader Patrick had registered all of us in the morning with the Park Authority just in case we might get lost or eaten by a bear. The next train back to Stary Smokovec left at 15.55 so a quick pace was needed to round the tarn and be at the station in time. We were!

REPORT OF WALK WEDNESDAY 1 OCTOBER SLOVAKIA WITH THE ROSSENDALE RAMBLERS

FROM ELAINE ECCLES

The start of the walk

We are expecting the weather to break today and it definitely feels cooler. The group are now kitted out in their normal wet weather gear that has been in full use over the last few weeks (and months) at home. The main topic of conversation relates to food, and we don't know whether we are eating in the hotel this evening or "going out" due to a mix-up in our booking and our inclusive paid evening meal ended last night. Joan was ill last night and we are concerned.

The train journey

We made our way to the little station across from our hotel in Smokovec to commence our 35-minute journey to Popradske Pleso. The countryside was, on the whole, quite barren-looking, with new high rise buildings and thin spiky ‘bare bottomed' pine-type trees sparsely scattered over the brownish earth. The hurricane four years previously had flattened most of the trees leaving the strongest to survive. Nature is surviving to provide, in parts, a bushy pale green and brown carpet splattered with small pines and weed type undergrowth. The snow-capped Tetra and Carpathian mountains on either side of us formed a backcloth of beauty reminiscent of Austria and Switzerland. Very different to the green fields and densely populated towns we see on train journeys at home.

The walk

Our guide (Patrick) took us through mainly muddy and slightly rocky paths threading through an unusually silent forest to the Popradske Pleso Tarn. The absence of bird-song was noted but Guide Martin assured us that birds were in abundance in Slovakia. In a nice cembra pinewood under Ostrva in the Mengusovska valley we came upon the Symbolic Cemetery.

77 beautifully painted wood crosses; various carvings and 278 plaques are dedicated to the Slovak people who have died on the Tatra Mountains. We had our lunch at the Horsky Hotel where soup, beer, tea and hot chocolate were enjoyed. The tarmac path

leading down to the railway station was lined with Larch and Pine Trees, brown and green foliage and highly stacked stores of large logs. The laughter of the Rossendale Ramblers echoed through the drizzle and periodic blue sky as we told our silly tales.

The train journey back to Smokovec would have given a UK Health and Safety a serious headache. We were packed like cattle in a truck- I know now how a sardine in a tin feels like.

Summary

The walk was ideal for the weather conditions and for a mixed ability walking group. It was not the best of our walks but throughout the laughter and camaraderie was still of the finest quality.

Thursday 2^nd of October.

From Rosemary

This was deemed a rest day by Martin. He did, however suggest a route for a moderate walk. Tom elected to lead the walk. Elaine, Gary, Jean, Ian and Rosemary decided to participate in the adventure. Despite a poor weather forecast, blue skies were visible overhead. Leaving the hotel the group skirted around the impressive Grand Hotel built 1902. A minor road was followed which gently led uphill. This followed the route of the funicular railway track.

Leaving the road a green track was taken. This had been diverted, as forestry workers were busy clearing tree stumps. The Tatranski Bora (an ill wind) decimated about 50% of the trees in the area. Whilst this hurricane force wind occurred in 2004 its effects were still visible. On our way we noticed some black, slotted boxes on stakes. These were to monitor and number various insect species. The track eventually led us to Hrebienok at 1280mtrs. This spot gave extensive views of the Velka Studene Valley. Across the plain could be seen Poprad the largest town in the region. A brief drink stop was taken. The sun shone and excess clothes were being shed. Bear proof litter bins were provided. Discarding our empty drink cartons it proved difficult even for humans to access the bins. Ian of course came to our rescue. He soon discovered the mechanism for opening and closing the receptacle. We then took a gently undulating stony track. The area was well wooded particularly with Limba fir trees (Dwarf). There were good views of mature forest and the plains. The orange, rust, yellow and brown colours of autumn on the leaves of the trees were spectacular. Spruce, Beech, Mountain Ash and Willow all grew in the area. As the sun shone through the leaves it gave a dappled effect on the stony path. Passing two waterfalls we made our way to Zamkovskeho Chata (Alpine Hut). Mountain tea was taken (Green tea sweetened with honey).

Retracing our steps slightly we came to a junction and took the path to Skalnata. As we progressed gently uphill there were extensive views up the valley. Snow-capped mountains could be seen. Our views were framed by the trees whose leaves were golden in colour. Across the plain various settlements could be seen including Stary Smokovec. Contouring around the hillside a cable-car station came into view. We arrived at Skalnata Chata 1725mtrs. (Alpine Hut) in time for lunch. The hut was closed as a private group were being accommodated. Lunch was taken on the terraced area of the cable-car station. This spot was popular with visitors enjoying the warm sunshine. the ubiquitous cabbage soup was on the menu. This was consumed by some of the group. After a leisurely break and ice cream we again set off walking. The cable car was not taken because of long queues and the cost 10 euros. If taken it led to the precipitous Lomnicky Stit 2634mtrs. (2^nd highest mountain in the high Tatras). At the top of the peak could be seen an astronomical and metrological station of the Slovak Academy of Science. Our path then led us briefly past a body of water - Skalnata Pleso 1761mtrs. (Rocky Tarn). Another observatory could be seen in the distance (a large building with silver coloured topped domes).

The scenery changed to a more barren landscape with large boulders on the slopes. One boulder had tumbled down onto the path. Peter and then the other men were photographed trying valiantly to move the obstruction. The path then led us into a fairly dense forested area. The forest floor was soft and covered by pine needles providing an easy path to walk. A large pile of poo was spotted. Ian identified this as belonging to a bear. He also discovered a footprint from a deer. Further progress was made and some thought they heard a grunting/growling noise in the distance. This was maybe from a bear. We started to scare ourselves with talk about being kidnapped or attacked by bears. Jean hurriedly went for a loo stop behind a tree. She swiftly rejoined the group. Talk then turned to sacrificing a group member if necessary to the bears. Rosemary thought Tom was the obvious choice as he was the heaviest in weight. He protested and claimed as leader he should not be chosen. Some purple harebells and gentian flowers were seen. The path was then taken to Tatranske Lomnica. We came upon a clearing where fir trees were being felled. Ian was fascinated by a large yellow machine as it made its way over the rough earth. We then met the road and found ourselves at the middle station of the cable car.

The temperature had cooled with clouds gathering and some spots of rain felt. We went down the road taking paths where possible to shorten our journey. Descending to Tatranske Lomnica (the smallest of the High Tatra resorts) the autumnal colours were a sight to behold. We safely made our way to the railway station for the trip home. A swift beer was taken as we waited. We arrived at Stary Smokovec at 5.25. Tom had guided us well. Duration of the trip was 14-15mls. The evening meal was taken at the Grill Teresa Alpina by Ann, Elaine, Jack, Jean, Maureen, peter, Rosemary and Tom. The cosy wooden restaurant provided personal service and good food. The grilled trout in particular was outstanding. Wine flowed freely. The dessert included warm raspberries or blueberries and ice cream. Pancakes were also available. As we wandered back to base we all agreed it was the end of a good day.

Walk to Horsky Hotel, Friday 3rd October 2008

From Tom.

At about 9.15 on a very misty morning, six hardy (foolhardy?) souls set off to walk the route taken by the larger group the previous day. Within two minutes we were joined by 'The Patrick', who'd obviously been sent by a worried Martin to ensure he didn't have to explain the loss of six British citizens!

The usual start photo was taken amidst great confusion at the back of the Grand Hotel. The walk proper then commenced with a visit to a little chapel which had some lovely stained-glass windows.

Patrick led us up a muddy track used by the logging vehicles on the other side of the railway from the road. Visibility was only about 100 yards, but we felt the beginnings of a very light breeze which we hoped would clear the mist. By about 9.30, the ladies started to get their kit off and the sun came out very briefly to have a look. Unimpressed, he disappeared, never to be seen again for the rest of the day.

We continued up a very muddy stretch of track where Rosemary tripped and almost did a faceplant - fortunately she only ended up with muddy hands. Patrick had planned to take us onto a drier route, but tree felling was in progress, and as Helen said - 'I don't want a tree on me 'ead!' - so it was back to the mud. A few hundred yards further on, we saw a one horse-power tractor (a horse!) being used to move logs, and a little later, a team of two. They were strong, powerful animals, well looked after and very interesting to watch.

Within a few minutes, we reached the train station at Hrebienok, and after a short break, set off along the westerly Red Route. The track climbed gently, Ian stopped to take picture of the colourful bushes (blueberries?), and the track became muddier and then steeper and much more rocky. At 11 o'clock, we came to the top of the rocky stretch and were rewarded with a view down the walley - sorry, valley - between layers of cloud. It began to rain as we climbed a very rocky stretch. Midday saw us still climbing and it began to rain very heavily; a few minutes later, however, we were rewarded with spectacular views of the jagged rocks above and shortly after, the mountain hotel we were aiming for came into sight. We stopped to take a few pictures of the Velicke Pleso and went into the hotel for lunch.

There was the usual selection of garlicky soups which were very good, and a notice saying 'No own food to be eaten', which everyone ignored. The building was an austere, concrete, 1970's Russian architectural gem, and most of the walkers who'd stopped for lunch were Poles and Czechs.

We started the long, gentle descent down the green track at 1.15 until its junction with the yellow path. This was slippery in places and as the trees thinned, the rocks became even more treacherous because of the pine needles making our boots slippery. After an hour's walking, we came to an area affected by the hurricane and the sky began to brighten. The track became covered in branches from the logging which made walking difficult and the mist began to close in again. However, we very soon reached a tarmac road and signs of civilisation - a wrecked lorry by some dilapidated buildings. Within a few minutes, we entered the town, very close to the restaurant we'd struggled so hard to find the night before. We continued into the town past the wooden sculptures, and for the last time, we joined the culture bunch in our favourite tea shop - a nice end to the day!

Departing in the wee small, dark hours of the Saturday morning wasn't much fun but the travel arrangements were spot on and our thanks to Mountain Paradise in general and Matt, Martin, Patrick and Marco in particular.

Thanks are also due to Gretchen for doing the arranging and to Ian for withstanding it.